this is a crazy place.
Tourists, locals, hot surfers, posers,
beginners--everybody is here and waiting to burn you
on your epic ride. When you take off plan on 4 other
guys wanting to take off too--unless you are super
fast, super good, or super scary to look at--then
you get all the waves you want! Walk to the end and
jump off like everybody else. Watch out, the reef is
shallow and the Wall does not move--so don't hit it!
When the waves are big, there are plenty of long hot waves further out-just keep paddling out and leave the crowd behind. Many times if you are good you can catch a big one way outside and ride it all the way to the beach- and the whole huge inside crowd sees you doing it! As you ride closer to them, they are all plotting and positioning to snake the wave from you so plan accordingly.
Paddle out past Walls for bigger, less crowded waves.
Big waves hitting the wall.
Guys making the jump into the small unrocky sandy area near the wall.
There are a lot of rocks and reef stuff in the water and near the beach-
watch your feet-don't kick a rock!
The whole goal here is to catch a big wave way outside, burn all your
buddies and clowns trying to take off on you, and making it all the way
past the wall to the beach so everyone can see you and take pictures
of you riding by.
Even little guys are brave enough to make that big jump off the groin.
guy with cheap board jumps in--crowd will recognize him as someone to burn.....