custom 44" scoop nose
custom twin fin boards
Cool yellow kneeboard
with 3 fin boxes
Click pic for video-
custom handpainted Kenu
"stealth" board and 51"
x 23" x 3" twin fin
both are "wrap rail"
Custom bodyboard Prices
board 48" and under and 2 1/2" thick or less-$270
thicker than 2 1/2" and up to 2 3/4" thick-$285
Boards longer than 48" or thicker than 2 3/4"--call
shipping, confirmation, and insurance for under 48"
long--$70 to U.S.A.
2 swivel wrist leash-$23 2 swivel
bicep leash-$25 handle-$18
each fiberglass fins-$35 each
I always recommend "incremental"
changes to your board to achieve that perfect board.
Before you order a new board from me, I will need
from you these measurements from your old favorite
board. Looking at the top of your board, use a
measuring tape or yardstick and find:
width--from edge of rail foams
2. length- stand the board up and measure it
3. tail width
4. wide point and where it occurs--is the widest
point 21" wide and it occurs 16" down from the
nose?? Measure it and let me know.
5. Thickness- lay the board flat on a table.
Place a book or wood on top, and then measure the
distance between the book and the tabletop.When you have
these measurements along with your height, weight,
type of waves you ride, and the city where you
or call (808) 429-2973.
can't give shipping quotes unless I know where you
Fin boxes with
This is the lightweight "carbon fiber look" vinyl I
like to use-in white, red, black, and silver.
also have other vinyls that have different textures,
colors, and weights. Rail colors are blue, red,
black-and I can also splice colors together for a
cool look. Bottom is always the impact resistant and
very fast white plastic. Ask for free channels on
the bottom if you want them. Top is vinyl with a
soft pad underneath-so the top doesn't give you rash
and is nice and soft. There are no stiffening
stringers in the board, although I do put them in
special big boy situations. Board is very stiff and
strong because of special internal structure and
usually has a slight lift in the nose so you don't
"pearl dive." Core is waterproof polypropylene. I
use real surfboard standard fin boxes and top
quality custom made fiberglass fins.
Check top links for shipping prices,etc.
your favorite boards dimensions and compare them to
other boards you like. If you are not sure what to order
or have questions, please-
Unless you have a specific tail design in mind, stick with
the standard crescent tail design. The crescent tail acts
like 2 pintails on either side of you and the crescent locks
you in so you don't slip around. I can do any other type
tail that you want, but from my experience the guys who try
different tails usually want me to modify their boards back
to the standard crescent tail. Wide tails for big heavy
people, narrower tails for lighter people.
If you are big, you need a longer board unless you are only
surfing fast, short, shore breaks. The cool length I've
noticed lately for most people is about 42". If you are
smaller, the board should come up a little above your belly
button. The first thing you should do is measure the length
on your old board, and decide if it is too short or what.
Stick with 60/40 rails unless you are surfing really big
waves. If your rail is lower like 50/50 (diamond rails),
your board might not be able to do smooth 360 turns because
the rail will be catching.
Small channels don't do much, but deeper channels do help
you hold your turn on big waves- check out my personal board
above. On smaller waves, deep channels may stop you from
doing clean 360 spinners.
You don't ride the nose, but the standard rule of thumb is
if you are prone riding-wide nose. If you are drop
I like to use special plastic for everybody because it's
really strong and fast.
If you are under 150 lbs. I'll
make it thinner. If over 220 lbs. I'll make it thicker.
Almost all custom boards come with a call to you by Ken to
make sure the board you ordered is the one you need, and to
clarify any questions or details.